CROSS FRONT/CROSS BACK

CROSS FRONT/CROSS BACK

The Cross Front/Cross Back of the human body can be altered by the vertical (hunch or erect body) and horizontal (protracted or retracted) movements of the upper shoulders.

The shoulder size also affects the Cross Front/Cross Back of a jacket.

So, a good shoulder size must be determined so that both the cross front and cross back of the jacket is tidy and not showing too much excesses of fabric.  

Do not measure directly from your body as certain figuration may easily confuse your measurement taking. It is very common one may not get the right shoulder length  at first try due inexperience in this figuration topic.

This can be overcome by trying out jackets until the right length is found. A scenario where one find himself comfortable in one size bigger but prefer the good fitting size which is one size smaller is quite common.

Normal Shoulders

Cross Front/Cross Back pic1 of IDENTIFYING BODY FIGURATION

Protracted Shoulders

Cross Front/Cross Back pic2 of IDENTIFYING BODY FIGURATION

Human form by nature is not a regular box-shape figuration. Most people exhibit some degree of “twistedness” (protracted shoulders) shoulders or thick back figuration.  The shoulders need to be a little longer at the rear and the X-front need to be a little shorter. The long shoulders at the back allow better arm movements whilst the smaller X-front renders the neat appearance at the front. However, many wearers are often observed wearing jackets that are either alright at the X-front and awfully tight at the back shoulders or alright at the back but exhibit excesses of fabric at the X-front.

Alright at the X-front and awfully tight at the back shoulders

FRONT SHOULDER OK BUT BACK SHOULDER TOO SHORT - SHOULDERS VITAL ISSUE IN SUIT MAKING

Tight at the shoulders but exhibit excesses of fabric at the X-front

FRONT SHOULDER TOO LONG BUT BACK SHOULDER OK - SHOULDERS VITAL ISSUE IN SUIT MAKING

Too large shoulder length and too much excesses of fabric at the X-back

TOO LONG SHOULDERS - Cross Front and Cross Back by Shoulders Vital Issue